Day 18 - Humboldt County Fairgrounds to Benbow KOA - July 3, 2014

The Wooded Road - Avenue of the Giants

Today, I woke around seven o'clock and started my morning routine of eating breakfast and packing up the bicycle. I like grabbing some bananas and yoghurt the evening before and holding the items over until the following morning. The fairgrounds in Ferndale were very quiet during the morning hours.

Snelling and I started bicycling at around eight o'clock. We took Grizzly Bluff road out of town. This route took us over country roads with views of countless family owned farms. Many cows showed interest in our cycles as we quietly moved by. I made an effort to make eye contact with those that looked my way. I never once sensed hostility. These animals seemed well cared for.

We moved eastward to Rio Dell and stopped at a small cafe for a

second breakfast. I had the huevos rancheros. They were outstanding. A local man struck up a conversation with us. He shared a recent newspaper article about the "Atomic Man" who had, while working at Hanford, been exposed to five hundred times the recommended amount of radiation. After the exposure, he was not able to fully enjoy his retirement - hiking, fishing, etc. I am grateful to have my health. After three cups of coffee, I was excited about getting back on the road to pedal. The Avenue of the Giants awaited just a short number of miles up the road.

Looking Up - Avenue of the Giants

The Avenue of the Giants is a thirty mile stretch of roadway that allows the traveler access into the heart of protected old growth redwood groves. By luck, we had positioned ourselves to complete the stretch in a single day. If you are a person who seeks out physical places to occupy in the hope of bettering yourself as a human being, I recommend pedaling this stretch on a bicycle. I'd like to hear the outcome.

Lunch Break on the Eel - Avenue of the Giants

For our roadside lunch, we stopped by a redwood grove and inched down to the Eel River. Snelling tested the water and went for a dip while I walked upstream. The wind was blowing hard through the canyon. I noticed several drunken butterflies tumbling down the rocky shoreline trying to maintain control of their new wings. I stood still on the stones, hoping one would land on me.

Leaving the Avenue of the Giants, we pedaled into highway 101 and down to the Benbow KOA. At first, the young woman at the desk told us that there wasn't room. The manager then stepped in and told us there was a space. Every square space was occupied with an RV. It surprising how many different names there are for these vehicles. We set up next to a pair of younger bicycle tourists, Dan and Sean. They had bicycled up from San Francisco and were working their way toward the San Juan Islands. They were both recent graduates of Colorado College with majors in religion. They shared some freshly popped corn and granola bars. We spoke about Malcolm X, Dr. King and Karl Marx. After enjoying a shower, I noticed that the KOA common room had a "Fun House" pinball machine. I left with $1.50 less in change.

Today, we biked over fifty miles.

KOA at Night - Benbow, California

Day 19 - Benbow KOA to Westport-Union Landing Site Beach - July 4, 2014

Jeremy - North of Confusion Hill

I woke before seven o'clock and decided to get moving. Snelling was already stirring and I knew that we had a big day in store. Dan and Sean had mentioned that there was a big climb after the town of Leggett. After packing up, I hit the road to beat some of the heat.

I was able to keep a pretty good pace on 101 in the early morning. There wasn't any traffic to speak of. The sun was coming up over the hills. The morning is a great time to ride. I was in a relaxed zone in no time at all. Just north of Confusion Hill, my thoughts were interrupted by a man looking down at me from an overpass. He hollered down asking if I had a phone - his car wouldn't start. Indicating that I did, I laid my bike in the grass and hiked up to meet the situation.

Upon cresting the hill, I noticed his vehicle, the driver's side door ajar and hood popped. I took out my phone and checked for coverage - no luck. He told me that he had parked his car the night before, fallen asleep and left the lights on which drained the battery. He asked me what day it was. I told him July fourth. He was relieved. He thought that he needed to be in court. I suggested that we make his car visible to passing motorists by pushing it down the onramp to the shoulder of 101. After shoving it down the hill, we pushed it into the grass. Almost on cue, a black pickup pulled along side and gave him a jump. As I pedaled by I waved goodbye and asked his name. He said "Jeremy."

I moved on to Leggett and met Snelling at a small grocery store. We bought breakfast items and, knowing we wouldn't have access to a store, food for the day. I filled my water bottles using the sink in their office. There was a tint to it, indicating minerals. I wasn't picky. I'd need it for the road ahead.

The next twenty-five miles were quite hilly. We rode to an elevation of close to two thousand feet on a curvy stretch of highway one. The downhill was, of course, a delight. I had to keep my attention very sharp. There were many blind corners that had to be approached with care. I broke onto the coast and spotted the first of four primitive campsites, all falling under the name Westport-Union Landing Site Beach.

We settled on the fourth large campsite overlooking the Pacific. Due to the fact that there were pit toilets and no showers, the hiker-biker charge was three dollars. The sites were not numbered. We chose an open, grassy spot by the entrance. With the massive amount of Independence Day campers, the place looked a little post apocalyptic. I threw out my sleeping pad and took a nap.

Waking at around six o'clock, we decided to head into Westport, just for something to do. Happening upon a small grocery store, we bought a few food and beverage items and sat on the front porch for about thirty minutes, people watching and talking about the community. We cycled back to the park before sundown.

Entering the campground, we were invited over to a warm fire provided by a couple older gentlemen. They both worked maintenance jobs at schools. One man, George, was seventy-two years old. He enjoyed his employment. They had made a tradition of coming to Westport together over the Fourth-of-July weekend for forty years. They were trying their luck at fishing during the day and burning a pile of oak in the evening to keep warm. We thanked them for their hospitality.

Today, we cycled over forty miles.

Sundown with Tents - Westport-Union Landing Site Beach

Day 20 - Westport-Union Landing Site Beach to Albion River Campground - July 5, 2014

Circle the Tents - Westport, CA

The day started early at 6:30 AM. The air was still and few of the campers were stirring. A heavy dew had fallen. There was a slight chill in the air. I was eager to get out on the road.

I couldn't believe the number of campers I spotted out on the beaches while cycling down highway one. It was one extended beach party. I noticed that extended families circled their tents. It made me think of the wagon trains of old. I dropped a little garbage and recycling in Westport on my way through town. One friendly resident yelled, "You're up early!" as I passed. The sun was just coming over the hills. It felt food to be moving again. I set my sights on Cleone, a few miles down the road.

Pudding Creek Crossing - Fort Bragg

Upon entering the town, I didn't really notice any businesses open. I cut down to the Ten Mile Beach Trail, as suggested by my bicycle map. The trail offered beautiful views of the coast and was exclusively biker/pedestrian. The major issue was the poor condition of the pavement. I've spent so much time on my bicycle the last twenty days, it has really become an extension of my body. Rough road racks my entire system. It was so bad in spots, I wished that I had stayed on highway one. I exited the trail after crossing the Pudding Creek bridge and into downtown Fort Bragg.

Good Find - Fort Bragg

Pedaling south on the main street, I quickly found Cafe 1, a breakfast spot. I sat down at a table with an electrical outlet, texted Snelling with directions and started drinking coffee. Charlie soon arrived and we had an excellent breakfast. We wanted to extend our time in Fort Bragg, having been outside for basically a day-and-a-half. Constant sun and wind, as well as sleeping night after night on the ground can be wearing. It's restful to spend time indoors. Snelling found the directions to the public library, which was a short distance away. We headed inside.

Sunscreen - Fort Bragg

I spent some time on a public PC, then started browsing the books. I picked up one that was filled with a vast amount of information related to the Dr. Who television series. I have watched a few episodes of the more recent incarnations of the Doctor. I would like to watch more when I return to Whidbey. I left thinking about the Dalek and what they were capable of. Before leaving town, we swung into Safeway for lunch and dinner groceries.

Dr. Who Tree - Mendocino

Mendocino was our next stop, ten miles down the road. Snelling poked around while I called home. I had a long conversation with my wife, Christina. Being away for a long time really makes me think about how much my family means to me. I know that I often take them for granted. I am lucky that we are all so close. On the way out of town, I noticed a "Dr. Who Tree" by Julie Galor. I couldn't believe it.

Albion Bridge from Bivy

Again, we moved south. At this point, we were looking for a place to sleep for the night. The Albion River Campground presented itself. We rode down a short hill and decided to pay a little extra to stay. After the primitive camping the night before, I wanted to have access to some facilities. We had dinner and talked to Rick. He was traveling north in his orange VW Transporter to Olympia. He planned on checking out the Olympic Peninsula if time allowed. We made a couple suggestions on where to stay in Oregon. He seemed interested. I ended the evening catching a shower and a shave. I felt like a new man.

We cycled forty miles today.

Day 21 - Albion River Campground to Gualala Point Regional Park - July 6, 2014

Feeding the Youngsters - Gualala River Bridge

I woke up to a quiet campground, packed my bags and headed south by about eight o'clock. Snelling had gotten up earlier. We agreed to meet in Elk, ten miles up the road. The ride was foggy, a bit chilly but satisfying, none the less. There was almost no traffic on highway one.

Pride of Elk

After pedaling into Elk, I noticed Snelling's bike locked up by Queenie's Roadhouse Cafe. I pulled up along side and locked up. This turned out to be another great little cafe for eating and charging electronics. We met a female cyclist who was biking the coast back to San Francisco. Her husband had dropped her off in Humboldt County. She had done one hundred seventy miles the day before and planned on at least one hundred fifty miles before the end of the day. She worked for Google and needed to be back to work on Monday morning. This was part of her training for a 1,000 K race that was scheduled in three weeks. Although she was unencumbered with camping gear, her daily mileage put ours to shame.

After painting my face with sunscreen, we rode another twenty miles to Point Arena. We just happened to arrive in the middle of an Independence Day parade. It was a little difficult maneuvering through the crowd. At one point, I cut between floats to gain access to the less populated portion of the street. For dinner items, we slipped into Coastal Organics Cooperative. I updated my blog using their wifi. It has been very difficult to get cell coverage on this portion of the coast.

Bay Trees - Gualala Point Regional Park

Mounting our bikes, we moved on down highway one fifteen miles to Gualala Point Regional Park. This was a nice little site, just up from the Gualala River. The first thing that struck me was the scent of the California Bay trees. The slight wind moved the fragrance around the sites. I crushed a leaf in my hand and held it to my nose for an intoxicating effect. I then slipped a sandwich out of my pannier and walked down to the river. Under the bridge, I couldn't help but notice the swallows swooping into their mud nests. The parents were hard at work feeding the little ones. I took a couple pictures and a video before moving back to the campsite. The showers were $1.50 and worth every quarter. I had time to practice my yoga routine before climbing into the bivy sack.

Today we cycled forty-five miles.

Spotlight: The Map Case

One extremely important navigating feature that I always have in front of me is my waterproof map case. The case itself is attached to the top of my Ortlieb handlebar bag. We're using the Adventure Cycling Association maps for this trip. The maps read left to right for a southbound trip. We have, for the most part, stuck to the routes suggested by Adventure Cycle. I'm amazed by the research that has been put into these. We have been able to primarily cycle on backroads for most of the journey. Also, bicycle-related amenities are listed for each town. Without any experience cycling on the coast, these maps and case have made the trip a breeze. I would highly recommend this setup to anyone planning a long tour.

Staying on the Path

Day 22 - Gualala Point Regional Park to The Dunes: Sonoma Coast State Park - July 7, 2014

Sea Ranch Chapel

Having gone to sleep early the night before, I woke up around six-thirty. I packed up and was out of the campground by just after seven o'clock.

I few miles in, I passed by the Sea Ranch Chapel. I put my bike down on in the grass and checked it out. The architecture was quite unique. I took a picture and wished I had the opportunity to enter. Cycling further south, I came upon the Sea Ranch Lodge. I locked up the bike, slipped in and waited for Snelling to arrive. He did a short time later, and we enjoyed the breakfast. The view from the restaurant was amazing.

Russian Mill - Fort Ross

We moved south to Fort Ross. After taking a glance into the complex, I had to pedal in. I was first greeted by a recreation of the historic windmill that was, at one time, in use at the Russian settlement. I read the information on the placard. I didn't realize that Russia had an early settlement in California. I wanted to learn more. Snelling arrived and we moved on to the fort.

Hank - Fort Ross

When we wheeled our bicycles into the walled area, Hank Birnbaum, a historian employed by the California State Park service, greeted us. He mentioned that he would be giving a talk in a couple minutes. We were both interested in hearing what he had to say. Hank was extremely knowledgeable about the history of the fort. He took us inside the the storage building. Time and energy had been put into making it look authentic. The historic Russians had trapped sea otter to trade with China for exotic goods. In turn, they had traded the Chinese goods to the Spanish missions for food stuffs. After a while, the otter became greatly diminished and the settlement was costing much more than it was generating. The Russian government decided to no longer support their interest in California and the fort was sold. I found the visit to Fort Ross fascinating.

Cycling in the Clouds - North of Jenner

Having stayed at the fort for two hours, we needed to get moving. The stretch of highway was otherworldly. At times I felt like I was cycling in the clouds. We flew on to Jenner, purchased a few groceries for dinner from a local store and headed to "The Dunes" campsite on the Sonoma coast. When talking to the ranger, I found out that the showers were free and hot. This was the combination I had been looking for in California. Moving on to the hiker-biker site, I was surprised to see several other cyclists already there. Most were headed to San Francisco. While eating dinner at the picnic table, I told Snelling that I was going to join him in making San Francisco the final stop for this tour. It had been such a good trip, I didn't want the cycling to turn into a grind. Also, I missed my family. I'd planned on picking up the final seven hundred miles next summer. It would give me something to look forward to.

Snelling and I left most of our belongings a the camp and headed for Bodega Bay to see what it was like. We stopped in at a little restaurant and had a drink. Bodega Bay is where the Hitchcock film "The Birds" was filmed. I noticed another restaurant of the same name. 

After arriving back at the campsite, I took that anticipated shower and walked to my bivy sack. While taking off my flip-flops I heard what I thought was a fly buzzing around my feet. A few seconds later, I felt a sting. I had invaded the home of a small colony of yellowjackets, the underground variety. The single sting was all I received. Luckily, they were docile at night. It did take me some time to get to sleep. Those bees really pack a punch.

We cycled approximately forty-five miles today. 

Day 23 - The Dunes: Sonoma Coast State Park to Amtrak Train - July 8, 2014

Swell

Awakening at eight o'clock, I noticed that my foot had swollen a bit from the sting. As I get older, I've noticed that I am becoming allergic to things that were not a problem in the past. We hustled our gear together and cycled out to Bodega Bay for breakfast.

While sitting down to eat, I called Amtrak. The Coast Starlight was sold out Wednesday through Friday. The earliest we could leave San Francisco was Saturday, which meant that I would be getting home on Sunday evening. There were seats available on the ten o'clock train leaving Emryville that evening. I didn't want to end the trip taking the airplane because I love train travel. We made the decision to bike the sixty-five miles from Bodega Bay to San Francisco and catch the night train north.

Pastoral Heat

At times, I like to operate under pressure, figuring out things as I go. The decision to catch the train presented me with this situation. We rode, without stopping, to Lagunitas. While there, we rested for forty-five minutes and I had some fruit and a vanilla shake. I enjoyed passing hilly farmland mixed with forests before crossing into Marin County.

Minus One Pedal Wrench

Knowing that we needed to box our bicycles at the station, I was on the lookout for a shop. We found Caesar's Cyclery. The owner was extremely helpful. Snelling bought a fifteen millimeter pedal wrench and we hit the road. Aided by the Adventure Cycle map, we navigated the urban area with ease to the Golden Gate Bridge.

Proud Moment - Golden Gate Bridge

Climbing toward the bridge entrance, the wind was a tyrant. It blew cold and hard. I knew the crossing would be blustery. Seeing Golden Gate after cycling for such a distance made for a memorable moment. My emotions showed up, hardening my throat. Thankfully, the bridge had a bicycle only lane. There were cyclists of all ages pedaling the length of the bridge. About one-third of the way across, a fellow tourist had parked her bike and shouted over the howling wind, "Welcome to San Francisco!" She was soaking up the moment and so was I.

Before the Dismantling - Emeryville Station

Leaving Golden Gate was simple. There was a special exit ramp that led us to a spot where we could easily access the waterfront. We cycled for about forty-five minutes then worked our way into Market Street. I spotted the subway entrance and we carried our bikes down the stairway. After asking for specific directions, we caught the BART subway under the sound to MacArthur Station. This was the stop closest to the Emeryville Amtrak station.

Upon entering the station, we each paid for our reserved tickets and purchased boxes for our bikes. I used the wrench Snelling brought and my Allen key set to disassemble my bike. I boxed and checked it for transport to Seattle. My good friend Andrew came for a visit and we had time to walk a few blocks for a drink and a chat. Wishing there was more time to visit, we reluctantly headed back to the station. He yelled loudly as he drove away.

Upon reentering the station, I was confronted by two Amtrak employees. They said that my bike box was "bulging" and wouldn't be shipped to Seattle. The Coast Starlight train had arrived. I was under pressure. After pleading with the man responsible for baggage, I grabbed my Allen keys and took off the handlebars. No more bulge. In retrospect, I should have done this in the first place. The box end was retaped, loaded on a cart and taken to the train. Close call.

Sleeping Arrangement - Coast Starlight

I boarded the train with Snelling and got settled. Having ridden coach many times, I know a few things about getting a good night sleep on the Coast Starlight.  I found the baggage area on the lower level of the car behind ours. I moved a couple suitcases, unpacked my camping gear and climbed in my bag. If you've ever ridden Amtrak, you are aware that the train bounces around a lot. If you try to sleep on your side, you'll flop over and wake up. To solve this problem, I braced myself against the wall of the car. In no time at all, the movement of the train lulled me to sleep. I didn't wake until eight o'clock the next morning. I don't think that the folks in the spendy roomettes could have slept better.

We bicycled over seventy miles today.

Day 24 - Coast Starlight Train - July 6, 2015

Langley Middle School in the Early Hours

Since last summer, I've been looking forward to going back on tour and seeing the rest of the U.S. Pacific coast. Charlie, Rocco Gianni and I started talking about it early last fall. Time moves quickly. Our journey is underway. 

This morning started at 3:00 AM. I packed up the bike the evening before so I could get out quickly in the early hours. It was one moonlight mile after another on the South Whidbey backroads. I left my home in the Goss Lake community, pedaled toward Langley, took Wilkinson road and made the 5:10 ferry boat bound for Mukilteo. Charlie and Rocco were on the 5:30 ferry.

Clove Hitch

We got a little crossed up catching the Sounder train to King Street Station in Seattle. Charlie arrived in plenty of time to get on. Rocco was at the back of the boat and just missed our train. He caught the next Sounder bound for Seattle and we met him there.

Sounder Situation

Once in the station, we dismantled the bikes, put them in cardboard boxes and checked them at the ticket area. We will be reunited in Emeryville. I hope that they are treated with care. 

We had plenty of time before our train departed, so Charlie suggested that we walk a short distance to Zeitgeist Coffee. Hoping to sleep on the train, I ordered a decaf coffee and a bear claw. I sat at a table with Roc and Charlie, our gear piled chair high. The 50's hits played weakly over the sound system, and I got lost staring up at the heavy post and beam construction of the former wear house. It was pleasant to relax after having accessed several forms of transportation with fully loaded bikes.

Dismantling

We slipped back to the train station around nine o'clock and left Seattle at 9:35, right on time. After a short chat with Roc, I investigated the entire train for sleeping places. The best I could find was the baggage car. I've used it before, but it is usually a last resort. This car was freshly mopped. Charlie and I threw out our camping pads and slept. I was down until around 5:00 PM. I woke once to hear Charlie getting hassled about his ticket. I showed mine and the conductor relaxed. I can only imagine he believed we were trying to stow away. Is there no place for the hobo in society today? I awoke one other time to find the train completely broken down. I smiled and went back to sleep. We started moving sometime in my dreams. We have been making up the lost time as we speed through Oregon. I have a real attraction to the unpredictability of this train system. I never take the arrival at my final destination for granted.

Baggage Car Zzz's

I stumbled up to the observation car, found Charlie and Rocco and listened to the life story and philosophy of Adrian, a man who served twenty-six years in the Air Force. After sitting with him for quite some time, we made our way to the dining car for dinner. After Charlie requested wine, the waiter went through the process of formally presenting a small plastic bottle of Merlot. The vintage year was 2013. I need to start honoring the insignificant. Charlie plans on stocking up at Safeway.

Day 25 - Oakland Stopover - July 7, 2015

Sightseeing in Oakland

I took advantage of my new sleeping pad on the floor of the Amtrak baggage car. I didn't turn over too many times. This points to the fact that it was a good purchase.

Damage

We headed to the dining car for a quick breakfast before getting off the train in Emeryville. Rocco's bicycle box had seen better days. Luckily, nothing was broken or missing from any of our bikes.

Climb out of Suburbia

My good friend Andrew picked us up shortly after we arrived. He was kind enough to offer his place in Oakland as a jumping off point for our adventure. While he met with an overseas client, we explored the immediate area around his home in Oakland. We started by cycling up his neighborhood hill to a dirt road that offered views of the bay. After cycling back down, we checked out the Leona Lodge. I found the construction of this particular building interesting. A large portion of the common area was suspended over the forest with cables. It would be interesting to learn more about the inspiration of the architect in this case. We also rode our bikes to an old observatory on the site of a public alternative school. I liked the contrast between hard science and new graffiti art on the portable walls of the school.

Leona Lodge

Later in the afternoon, Andrew treated us to several unique experiences while we were in his care. I very much enjoyed visiting Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon. This small establishment has been preserved in its original form and has recently been placed on the historic register. We sat at the same table that a young Jack London used for reading. Later, the current owner took her time to speak to us about the history of the place. I've always enjoyed London's work, so her words were of great interest to me.

Visit by the Owner

In the evening, we all barbecued different meats at Andrew's place. I have always been interested in music, so I was happy to listen to Andrew talk about the Beach Boys' album "Pet Sounds" as well as Ween's "The Pod." I am certainly going to give both of these works my time in the future. Later, he played music performed by many lesser known punk bands. To this day, we both continue to enjoy the genre.

Observatory

Day 26 - Oakland to Half Moon Bay State Park - July 8, 2015

Outside Andrew's Place - Oakland, CA

We left Andrew's Place around nine o'clock. We knew that we would be putting in a decent day of cycling. He kindly offered to drive us to Golden Gate, but we decided to make our way there on bikes. This was the official beginning of our bicycle tour!

Elevator Issues - Fruitvale BART Station

The ride though Oakland was a little unnerving. Not only was there quite a lot of traffic and poor roads, but construction and a tiny shoulder forced us into traffic. We worked it out and finally arrived at the Fruitvale BART Station. We were not allowed to use the escalators, so we navigated the multi-floor facility on tight elevators with our bikes. We arrived in San Francisco and worked our way to the waterfront. Using the bike lanes, sidewalks and trails, we wove our way to the Golden Gate Bridge. We took the opportunity to ride out onto the bridge and looked out over the white capped bay. A woman took our photo.

All Smiles - Golden Gate

Some of the cyclists crossing over to Marin are all business. One older man hardly gave an inch as he sped by on his light road bike. I noticed a whistle in his mouth. This hardened commuter had fine-tuned his crossing. There is confidence in routine.

Joan - Legion of Honor Art Museum

We headed south, stopping at the Legion of Honor in the Presidio and a Mexican restaurant for a quick bite. We scooted down to the Pacific and took the Great Highway due south. This was a beautiful, flat stretch with a decent shoulder. Moving through Daly City and Pacifica was fairly laid back thanks to our cycling maps taking us off highway and onto parallel residential roads.

The real nail biter was a stretch of highway one, over and around Point San Pedro. The state needs to spend a little coin and improve conditions for cyclists. The blind corners and little to no shoulder was the worst safety issue I have experienced yet on the Pacific coast. Luckily, the government has completed a hiker / biker road at the top that allowed us to completely avoid a tunnel and, more importantly, gather our thoughts. It was at the beginning of this bike-friendly road that we met Phillip.

Charlie and Phil Doing What We Do

Phillip stood out to us due to his pedaling a recumbent bicycle. We chatted with him off-and-on while traveling to Half Moon Bay. He was originally from Switzerland and had been touring for the last year on the bike. The recumbent had taken him  south from Anchorage, Alaska, to California. He had also done a large part of Australia. Having quit his job in the tech industry, Phillip was in the process of deciding whether or not he was going to continue touring after reaching San Diego. He named a couple reasons why he liked the bike - comfort and the ability to look around while riding. I hope to see Phillip more as we move down the coast.

Half Moon Bay Hiker / Biker Situation

We exited highway one and were able to take a trail most of the way to Half Moon Bay State Park. The hiker / biker site was more than adequate and the showers were hot. It's a dream to be back on the road.

We cycled fifty miles today.

Day 27 - Half Moon Bay State Park to Costanoa Campground - July 9, 2015

Tune-Up - Half Moon Bay

We woke this morning around 7:30. I pushed out of camp at around 9:00 wanting to check out Half Moon Bay.  Yesterday, I noticed a bicycle shop just off the highway. I had it in my mind to get my dérailleurs checked due to excessive chain noise. I stopped by and found that they opened at 10:00; I'd have to wait. I cycled into town, found the Main Street Grill and sent a message to Charlie and Roc. Breakfast continues to be an important time to hammer out the plan for the day. I enjoy pouring over the cycling maps and looking at our options.

New Bell

After eating and drinking too much coffee, we headed back to Bike Works, the cycle shop I stopped at earlier. The mechanic fine-tuned both dérailleurs. I purchased a rear-view mirror for my sunglasses and a bell for my handlebar. Small upgrades have enormous value when living simply.

Awaiting Rocco - Pescadero State Beach

After picking up sandwiches, we left Half Moon Bay at noon. We were able to move relatively quickly due to our not encountering any major inclines. Needing a break, we stopped at Pescadero State Beach for a dip in the ocean. The water was a little cooler than I had hoped, but it did feel refreshing. I dove under several waves and then walked back to the shore. Surprisingly, there were very few people who had stopped at this particular beach.

First Dip - Pescadero State Beach

We moved down highway one for several miles to Pigeon Point Lighthouse. The map indicated that there was a hostel at the point and road signs confirmed this. Unfortunately, we were out of luck. All of the beds had been taken and campers were not allowed to pitch tents outside. The kind man behind the desk indicated that we would find the Costanoa Campground five miles down the road. I believe that he had been living on the point for many years. He had that thousand mile stare and a deep, unhurried voice. We were happy to hear that there was another campsite close. We moved out.

Turned Away at Pigeon Point

Costanoa was easy to find. The unusually large cypress trees leading up the road to the camp caused me to slow in admiration. The pungent smell is one I enjoy. We cycled up to registration and were able to split the campsite fee three ways. The registrar pointed out that we had access to free showers and a sauna. My jaw dropped.

Snelling and Sawmill

After arriving at our numbered camp spot, we started looking around. On some cleared adjacent property, Charlie clued us in to an old portable sawmill identical to the one he used for years in Belize. I really found his detailed description of its operation interesting. We spoke for awhile about the functions of the different moving parts. It was powered by an old VW engine. The machine had fallen into disuse and was rusted out, never to cut again. Engines as well as bodies need to be used.

Neglect

Later, Charlie and I explored the grounds, and I took advantage of the sauna and shower.

While writing this in my tent, a raccoon is sniffing at the vestibule. With all of the young campers around, he's bound to hit pay dirt. Be bold, my friend.

We cycled twenty-six miles today.